A cult Chenin from South Africa

I became a little obsessed with Chenin Blanc after a trip to South Africa a few years ago. It's one of those grapes that really lets the winemaker speak — a bit like Chardonnay, you can find fresh, zippy Chenins made for a sunny afternoon, and much richer, textured wines with extraordinary depth. You can even find sweet wines and sparkling from this magical grape. The problem is, there's too much great Chenin — and not enough time to try them all!

Chenin really has two spiritual homes: France and South Africa, both very much worth exploring. Since I've been riding the wave of so many delicious South African wines lately, today's spotlight is a bottle that's particularly caught my eye — we'll get to a French Chenin another time.

The bottle I've picked for July is the Dorper Chenin Blanc, 2023, from Reg Holder of Holder Wines in Stellenbosch. Reg was raised on a grape farm, so vineyards run deep in his family. Just 2,400 bottles of the Dorper are made each year, and it's quietly become a bit of a cult wine — highly rated in South Africa, and striking a rare balance between power, elegance and complexity.

Holder Dorper Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2023

On the nose, it's all pineapple, passion fruit and white peach, with a subtle lift of green herb. The palate is energetic — juicy stone fruit, fine acidity, and a whisper of oak in the background (which mellows into the wine as it opens up). A seriously well-made Chenin with real charm — drinking beautifully now, and over the next five years.

There's enough intensity here to hold up to roast chicken, pork or grilled fish — but this is a great discovery wine. Chill it down, open with good company, and it'll spark some good conversation.