The other side of Côtes du Rhône

Say Côtes du Rhône to most people and they picture a red. So would I. Across the whole Rhône Valley only about one bottle in ten is white, so if you've never had one, you haven't been missing something obvious, there just aren't that many about. Which is a shame, because they're lovely.

The whites here are usually blended rather than made from a single grape. This one has five in it: Viognier, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Clairette and Marsanne. Each brings something a little different, and together you get the depth and texture these wines are known for, with plenty of freshness too.

It feels like the right moment for one, too. The evenings are cooling off and I'm not reaching for the light, crisp whites and the rosé quite as often — this has a bit more about it, without being heavy.

The bottle I've picked for September is Parallèle 45, from Paul Jaboulet Aîné — one of the Rhône's great names, making wine in Hermitage since 1834. The name refers to the 45th parallel — 45 degrees north, the midpoint between the equator and the North Pole. It runs directly over their cellars. Follow it around the world and it passes through Bordeaux, Piedmont and Oregon's Willamette Valley. Pretty decent company. They've been making this wine since 1950, and it's now certified organic, from vines around forty years old.

Paul Jaboulet Aîné, Parallèle 45, Côtes du Rhône Blanc, France, 2024

White peach, citrus and a gentle floral lift. Rounded and expressive, with enough freshness to keep it lively, the sort of wine that's very easy to enjoy.

A brilliant all-rounder. Good as an aperitif, and equally at home with a prawn salad, a piece of white fish, or a cheeseboard.